The Hanalei Valley Lookout, on the edge of paradise off Highway 56, is a good place to pull over and get your bearings. Across the road, the Princeville Resort spreads gracefully over 23 acres on Puu Poa Ridge, high above Hanalei Bay. Its well-manicured, award-winning golf courses provide an emerald centerpiece for the posh resort and residential community. The view from the Lookout lies in perfect contrast to the resort. Here a lazy river meanders through taro patches, green leaves glimmering like emeralds framed by moss-colored mountains and deep, blue sky. Here the 917-acre Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge has been established to protect endangered and other birds. And here, at the gateway to the Hanalei Valley, is a one-way truss bridge originally constructed in 1912, the first of many one-way bridges that lie in the path of the winding highway that leads through Hanalei Town to the end of the road.